Snowblisoba & Tbilisi's deteriorating grandeur

Today, for the first time this winter, I woke up to find our courtyard covered under a tiny layer of snow. By the time I got out of our house, Rustaveli and the streets of Mtatsminda had turned into one big slippery slush fest and my chances of photographing snowy Tbilisi in its full winter glory had gone down the drain. Instead, I decided to wander down the streets of one of my favorite neighborhoods Mtatsminda.

Detail from the entrance hall of a building on Machabeli
(thank the stars its under renovation)

A long time ago, before Communism deemed Art Nouveau a bourgeoisie hobby,  artists and wealthy Tbilisians lived in the beautifully designed an gorgeously ornamented apartments of Mtatsminda. Unfortunately, most of these buildings suffered under the Soviet policy of partitioning wealthy mansions into commie-sized apartments, setting in motion a process of decay that went into full swing during the chaos of the  90s, with its general lack of economic and social stability.

Hallway on Tabidze street. The sign on the left shows the 20 families
who used to live here during Soviet times

Hiding beneath a layer of crumbling plaster, rotting wood and an abundance of cracks, you can easily recognize the former grandeur.  I find the worn out look of these buildings sometimes charming and even typical of Tbilisi.  Beyond my own naivite however, it is clear that if nothing will be done soon some of these beautiful places will rot away completely. If only the government would spend half of what its spending on buildings like this one, on restoring more of Tbilisi's historic heart...

"E. Ter-Akopova". Hallway on Tabidze street.

A recently published book called "Tbilisi Entrance Halls" inspired me to take these pictures and to have a closer look at what's behind Tbilisi's typical entrance doors.  I am trying to map some of Tbilisi's exceptionally beautiful or interesting buildings, entrance halls, monuments, and courtyards. There is much more to see than the recently renovated Kala, and the more foreign visitors and Tbilisians are reminded of these hidden places, the less likely they will be forgotten. However great it is to stumble upon these places accidentally, I could use your help in finding more special places! Please leave a comment or write me a message if you want to help out or get involved. 

Snowy Tabidze